Through existing records
bowling can be traced back to as far as 7000 years ago. Archaeologists
trace its origin to the ancient Egyptians. In 1623 when the Dutch came
to this country with the early settlers, they introduced the game to America
as ninepins. In 1895, the American Bowling Congress was organized and it formulated rules, alleys, balls, and pins
which have become so popular in America that it can safely be said that
bowling has more enthusiasts today than any other sports activity. Over
40 million people participate annually. In recent years high school officials
have formulated the American High School Bowling Congress. Bowling is as
accepted sport in many schools in the United States. State championships
are held each year.
THE ALLEY
Behind the foul line is the approach which must not be less than 15 feet long. The pins are set 12
inches apart from center to center. The pin is 15 inches in height with
a base diameter of 2 and one-fourth inches. It is constructed of clear,
hard maple.
THE BOWLING BALL
The balls are made of a plastic
or a hardened rubber substance. The circumference is not more than 27 inches
and the ball weights from 10 to 16 pounds.
VARIATIONS OF THE GAME
There are other forms of bowling, such as duck pins, barrel pins, and candle pins.
RULES
1. The bowler is allowed to roll two balls from behind the foul line down the alley at the pins in an attempt
to knock down as many as he can.
2. Two alleys immediately adjoining each other shall be used in all games of league or tournament play, and
the bowling of the ten complete frames on the pair of alleys which the
game was started shall constitute an official game.
3. No pins shall be conceded (given freely) and only those actually knocked down may be counted. Every ball
delivered, unless it is declared a dead ball by the umpire, shall be counted
against the player.
4. When a player shall make a strike
in the tenth frame, he shall then be permitted to bowl two more balls on
the same alley.
5. A spare is made when a player bowls down all the pins with his second ball in any frame.
6. Pins which are knocked down by another pin rebounding back into play from the side partition or rear
cushion are counted as pins down.
7. a foul occurs when the bowler permits any part of his foot, hand, or arm, while in contact with the alleys
or runways, to rest upon or extend beyond the foul line. No count shall
be made on a foul ball, and any pins that are knocked down or displaced
thereby will be respotted.
PIN TERMINOLOGY
baby split: the number 3 and 10
pins for the right handed bowlers and the number 2 and 7 for the left handed
bowlers
brooklyn: The ball hits the headpin
and the adjacent pin on the opposite side of the alley from which the bowler
released the ball on the delivery.
cherry: one or more of the front pins are knocked down in a spare and others are left standing
strike: bowling over all the pins with the first ball rolled
double: two consecutive strikes (two in a row)
turkey: three consecutive strikes (three in a row)
headpin: the number one pin.
Bowling Terminology
The terms listed are common to bowling.
1.Alley bed ( also
lane or alley) – the flat surface on which the ball is rolled.
2.Approach (also runway)
-- the space, extending back from the foul line, which is used in making
the delivery.
3.Count – the number
of pins knocked down in one frame
4.Gutter – the semicircular
grooves on each side of the alley bed.
5.Gutter ball (also
poodle) – a ball that enters the gutter before reaching the pins.
6.Handicap –a specific
number of pins added to the score of a less skilled bowler to equalize
the competition partially
7.Head pin – the number
one pin
8.King pin – the number
five pin
9.Leave – pins left
standing after the first ball has been rolled
10.Lofting – throwing the
ball too high above the alley bed
11.Mark (also fill the frame)
– making either a strike or spare in the frame
12.Open frame (also break)—a
frame with neither strike nor spare
13.Pocket – space between
the 1-3 pins for the right-handed bowler; between the 1-2 pins for the
left-handed bowler.
14.Return – the track on
which the ball travels from pit to rack.
15.Setup – the triangular
arrangement of the ten pins.
16.Sleeper (also in the
dark or double wood) –a combination in which the rear pin is not easily
seen because of a pin
directly
in front.
17.Thin(also light) – hitting
on the side of a pin
18.Turkey – three consecutive
strikes
Courtesy
1.Remain behind the
foul line at all times.
2.Be ready to bowl
when the pins are ready and after completing a delivery and noting pin
fall, return to the rear of the approach.
3.Let the bowler on
the right bowl first if two bowlers on adjoining alley are ready simultaneously.
4.Avoid taking a ball
from the return rack if a bowler on an adjoining alley is ready to bowl.
5.Avoid entering the
approach area if a bowler on an adjoining alley or the same alley is preparing
to deliver.
6.Avoid speaking to
or distracting a bowler after he has assumed his stance.
7.Use one ball for
both rolls.
8.Avoid wearing bangles,
loose kerchiefs, or jangling jewelry.
TABLE TENNIS IS A GAME PLAYED
ON A TABLE BY TWO OR FOUR CONTESTANTS, WITH A SMALL, LIGHTWEIGHT CELLULOID BALL, SMALL
RACKETS, AND PADDLES.
THE WHITE STRIP RUNNNING
LENGTHWISE DOWN THE CENTER IS USED ONLY FOR DOUBLES PLAY.
LIKE TENNIS, TABLE TENNIS INVOLVES HITTING THE BALL BACK AND FORTH OVER THE NET UNTIL ONE OF
THE PLAYERS MISSES THE BALL, OR HITS IT INTO THE NET OR OFF THE
TABLE; IN EACH OF THESE CASES THE OPPONENT SCORES A POINT.
TO SERVE PROPERLY, A PLAYER HOLDS THE BALL ON THE FLAT, OUTSTRETCHED
PALM OF THE HAND, THEN THROWS IT UP AND STRIKES IT AS IT FALLS. THE
BALL MUST THEN HIT THE TABLE ON THE SERVER'S SIDE OF THE NET FIRST,WHEN
UPON PLAY CONTINUES AS IN TENNIS, BUT THE BALL MUST HIT THE
TABLE BEFORE BEING RETURNED BY A PLAYER.
WHEN A SERVE TOUCHES THE
NET BUT IS OTHERWISE A GOOD SERVE, IT IS CALLED A "LET" AND
PLAYED OVER.
ONE PLAYER SERVES UNTIL 5 POINTS HAVE BEEN SCORED,
AFTER WHICH THE OPPONENT SERVES FOR THE NEXT FIVE POINTS.
A GAME IS WON BY THE PLAYER WHO FIRST SCORES 21 POINTS. IF THE SCORE
IS TIED AT 20-ALL, DEUCE, THE SERVICE CHANGES AFTER EACH POINT
UNTIL ONE PLAYER GAINS OR 2-POINT ADVANTAGE TO WIN THE GAME.
PLAYERS CHANGE ENDS AFTER
EVERY GAME(AND ALSO WHEN ONE PLAYER REACHES 10 IN THE DECIDING GAME
OF THE MATCH.)
SO-CALLED NET AND EDGE BALLS-THAT IS, SHOTS THAT
TOUCH EITHER THE NET OR TABLE EDGE- ARE VALID SHOTS. WHEN IN THE OPINION
OF THE UMPIRE, A BALL HITS THE SIDE INSTEAD OF THE END EDGE
OF THE TABLE, THE PLAYER WHO MADE THE SHOT LOSES THE POINT.
DOUBLES PLAY IN TABLE TENNIS
DIFFERS FROM SINGLE PLAY IN THE FOLLOWING RESPECTS:
1. SERVICE MUST BE FROM THE
RIGHT HAND COURT INTO THE OPPONENT'S RIGHT HAND COURT.
2. EACH PARTNER MUST HIT
OR RETURN ALTERNATE SHOTS.
EACH PLAYER RECEIVES SERVICE FOR 5 POINTS, THEN AS OPPONENTS SHIFT
POSTIONS, SERVES FOR 5 POINTS.
THE SEQUENCE OF ONE SPECIFIC
PARTNER HITTING TO ONE SPECIFIC
OPPONENT MUST BE CHANGED AFTER EACH
GAME AND WHEN ONE SIDE REACHES
10 IN THE DECIDING GAME OF THE
MATCH.
IN THE LATE 1980'S, TABLE
TENNIS ENTERED INTO THE OLYMPICS
GAMES. THE U.S. TABLE TENNIS ASSOCIATION
(USTTA) GOVERNS
TOURNAMENT COMPETITION IN THE U.S.
ANNUAL MATIONAL CHAMPIONSHIPS
ARE HELD IN 45 DIFFERENT CLASSIFICATIONS
INCLUDING MENS, WOMENS,
JUNIORS, AND SENIORS.
The court consists of two pitcher's
boxes with a stake in the center of each. The pitching distance from stake
to stake shall be forty (40) feet for men, optionally thirty (30) feet
for ladies.
Choice of first pitch shall
be determined by the toss of a coin. In successive games between the same
players, the loser shall have choice. The first contestant pitches both
shoes, then his opponent pitches two shoes. An inning is the pitching to
two shoes by each contestant. Point winner of each inning pitches first
in the following inning. In case of a tie, the player who pitched last
in the inning will pitch first in the following inning.
The pitcher must remain behind
the foul line until the shoe leaves his hand. Any shoe delivered while
the pitcher's foot extends beyond the foul line shall be declared foul.
Foul shoes shall be removed from the opposite pitcher's box at the request
of the opponent.
Out of courtesy, no player
should indulge in heckling a pitcher. (Penalty - both shoes of offender
declared foul in that inning.) No player shall touch any shoe until winner
and points of inning have been agreed upon or decision rendered by referee.
No player shall walk to the opposite stake or be informed of the poisition
of shoes prior to the completion of an inning. A player, when not pitching,
must remain on the opposite side of the stake to the player in action and
to the rear of a line even with the stake.
Scoring
A tournament game consists
of (50) points. Informal games are usually 21 points. Points are scored
according to the position of the shoes at the end of each inning.
1. Only one player scores
in any inning.
2. A shoes must be within
six inches of the stake to score.
3. A "ringer" is declared
when a shoe encircles the stake far enough to allow the touching of both
heels simultaneously with a straight edge.
4. Closest shoe to stake
scores one point.
5. Two shoes closer than
the opponent's count two points.
6. One ringer scores three
points, two ringers count six points.
7. Two ringers against one
for opponent count three points.
8. One ringer and closest
shoe of same player score four points.
9. If each player has a ringer,
the next closest shoe, if within six inches of the stake, scores one point.
10. A leaning shoe has no
value over one touching the stake.
11. All equals count as ties,
and no points are scored.
Golf courses are either 9 or 18 holes
in length--a hole being the distance from the tee to the green. Depending
upon their length, these holes are rated at three, four, or five pars.
Figures determined by the number of shots an expert golfer should take
to negotiate the hole, assuming that two shots will be putts.
The area from which the first shot is made is called the tee.
The area at the other end of the hole is called the green, and contains the hole or "cup" into
which the ball must be stroked.
The intervening area is called
the fairway: this well-kept, contains hazards of contour, soil, trees,
shrubs, and grass.
Bordering the fairway is less welltended land interspersed with trees, sand traps and other natural hazards. These areas are called the rough.
TERMINOLOGY
Approach- A stroke to the putting
green.
Birdie-A score of one under par
for a single hole.
Bogey-A score of one over par on
a hole.
Bunker-A mound on the fairway;
also sometimes use to indicate a sand trap.
Divot-A piece of turf cut out of
the ground in making a stroke.
Dog leg-A bend in the fairway either
to the left or right.
Double eagle-Three strokes under
par for a single hole.
Eagle-Two strokes under par for
a single hole.
Face-The hitting surface of the
club.
Fade-A slight drift of the ball
from the left to the right at the end of the ball's flight.
Fore-A warning cry to any person
in the way of play.
Foursome-Four players playing together.
Halved-The hole is tied.
Handicap-Strokes given to equalize
playing ability. The purpose of the handicap is to encourage poor players
to enter tournaments.
Hole out-Putting or hitting the
ball into the cup.
Hook-The opposite of a slice: with
a right-handed player. It comes from a stroke that causes the ball to rotate
counterclockwise and to curve to the left of the line from player to objective;
with a lefthanded player, a clockwise spin on the ball causes it to go
to the right of the line from player to objective.
Lie-The position if the ball resting
on the ground.
Par-The number of strokes a good
player should need to play a hole, without mistakes, under ordinary conditions;
it always allows for two putts in the green.
Pressing-Trying to hit the ball
too hard.
Shanking-Hitting the ball with
the heel and shaft of the club, causing it to go far right of the intended
flight.
Slice-For a right-handed player,
a stroke that gives the ball a clockwise spin, making it arc its flight
to the right of the line from player to objective; for a left-handed player,
a stroke giving the ball spin that arcs it to the left of the line from
player to objective.
Smothered shot-The ball rolls on
the ground after being hit, instead of going upward when distance is desired.
Sole-The surface of the club that
touches the ground.
Tee-First, the peg on which the
ball is elevated when it is to be struck from the teeing ground; second,
the teeing ground itself.
Top-To hit the ball above its center.
RULES
There are two basic types of play:
(1) Match play, in which the player winning the most holes wins the match.
(2) Medal play, in which the player having the smallest number of strokes
per round is declared the winner.
The basic golf rules are:
(1) In the tee area the ball must be teed up between, but not in front
of, the markers, and not more than two clubs lengths behind the markers.
(2) Each swing at the ball counts as one stroke, even though the ball is
missed. However, if the ball is accidentally knocked off the tee, it may
be replace without penalty.
(3) Once the tee shot is hit the player whose
ball lies farthest from the green plays first.
(4) If the ball goes out-of-bounds,
the golfer must play another ball from the spot where he played the out-of-bounds
ball. The penalty is one stroke.
(5) When the ball is in a hazard, it must
be hit before the ground can be touched with the club; example-a player
may not set the club down behind the ball in a trap.
(6) When the ball
is lost and cannot be found after 5 minutes of searching, the golfer must
go back to the spot from which he played the lost ball and play another
one. The penalty is one stroke.
(7) Where the ball is thought to be out-of
-bounds, lost or in a water hazard, a provisional ball is played from the
same position. If the original is found later within bounds and is playable,
the provisional ball mustbe picked up and the original must be played;
no penalty is given.
(8) If the ball comes to rest on the wrong green,
it must be moved off the green and dropped as near as possible to where
it lay, but not nearer to the hole being played.
(9) If an artificial obstruction
such as a hose or tee bench is in the lie of play, the ball may be moved
within two clubs' length of the nearest point of the obstruction, but not
nearer to the hole, and played without penalty.
(10) A tee shot going into
a water hazard is replayed, with a penalty stroke.
ETIQUETTE
(1) Never stand in the line of
a player's shot.
(2) Be still while a player is making a shot.
(3) Be sure
that all players are off the green before making approach shots.
(4) Replace
all divots; simply press the grass down with the feet to help the grass
grow better.
(5) As soon as each player has completed putting, leave the
green immediately. If there is any discussion as to how many strokes each
player has had, this should be held off the green.
EQUIPMENT
The beginning set should be composed
of a number 1 wood, number 3 wood; 3,5,7, and 9 irons; and a putter.
CLUBS
By rule, each golfer is allowed
to carry fourteen clubs, but eleven or twelve are enough for the average
golfer, and seven for the beginner. Starting with the number 2 iron, the
faces of the irons are given graduated loft: the number 9 iron has the
greatest loft. The wood clubs, starting with the friver, are likewise lofted
to the number 4 wood. The purpose of lofted clubs is to provide height
of shot, in order to overcome obstacles or to cause the ball to "stick"
on the green with the desired limitation on roll after the ball strikes
the green. The putter, of course, is used to roll the ball into the cup.
Racquetball may be played
by two or four players. When played by two it is called "singles," and
when played by four, "doubles."
The objective is to win each
rally by serving or returning the ball so the opponent is unable to keep
the ball in play. A rally is over when a side makes an error, or is unable
to return the ball before it touches the floor twice, or if a hinder is
called.
Points are scored only by
the serving side, when it serves an ace or wins a rally. When the serving
side loses a rally, it loses the serve. Losing the serve is call an "out"
in singles, and a "handout" or "side out" in doubles. A game is won by
the side first scoring 21 points. A match is won by the side first winning
two games.
a) In the event that each participant
or team wins one game, the match shall be decided by a fifteen point tie-breaker.
b) Player, (team in doubles) totaling
the greater number of points in the first two games, shall have the option
of serving or receiving the tie-breaker.
courts-
1) Short line: The short line is
midway between and is parallel with the front and back walls dividing the
court into equal front and back courts.
2) Service Line: The service zone
is the space between the outer edges of the short and service lines.
3) Service Zone: The service zone
is the space between the outer edges of the short and service lines.
4) Service Boxes: A service box
is located at each end of the service zone by lines 18 inches from and
parallel with each side wall.
5) Receiving Lines: Five feet back
of the short line, vertical lines shall be marked on each side wall extending
three inches from the floor.
The player or side winning
the toss in the first game will have the option of serving or receiving
in the first game. The player or side who loses the tosss in the first
game will have the option of serving or receiving in the second game. The
server may not initiate the pre-service motion from outside of the serving
zone. Stepping on the line (but not beyond it) is permitted. Server must
remain in the service zone until the served ball passes short line. Violations
are called "foot faults."
Manner: A serve is commenced as
the ball leaves the server's hand. The ball must bounce on the floor in
the service zone and on the first bounce be struck by the server's racquet
in an obvious attempt to serve the ball. The ball must strike the front
wall first and on the rebound hit the floor back of the short line, either
with or without touching one of the side walls.
Serve in doubles:
Server: At the beginning
of each game in doubles, each side shall inform the referee of the order
of service, which order shall be followed throughout the game. When the
first server is out, the side is out. Thereafter both players on each side
shall serve until a hand-out occurs. It is not necessary for the server
to alternate serves to their opponents.
Partner's Position. On each
serve the server's partner shall stand erect with their back to the side
wall and with both feet on the floor within the service box until the served
ball passes the short line. Violations are called "floor faults."
Defective Serves
Defective serves are of three
types resulting in penalties as follows:
a)Dead ball serves. A dead ball
serve result in no penalty and the server is given another serve.
b)Fault serve: Two fault serves
result in a hand-out.
c)Out Serve: An out serve results
in a hand-out.
Fault Serves: The following serves
are faults and any two in succession result in a hand-out.
Foot faults. A food fault results:
When the server leaves the
service zone before the served ball passes the short line. When the server's
partner steps beyond the lines of the service box before the served ball
passes the short line. When the server steps over the service or short
line.
Short serve: A short serve is any
served ball that first hits the front wall and on the rebound hits the
floor on or in front of the short line either with or without touching
one side wall.
Three-wall serve. Any ball served
that first hits the front wall and on the rebound hits two side walls on
the fly.
Ceiling Serve. Any served ball
that touches the ceiling after hitting the front wall either with or without
touching one side wall.
Long Serve. A long serve is any
served ball that first hits the front wall and rebounds to the back wall
before touching the floor.
Missed ball. Any attempt to strike
the ball on the first bounce that results either in a total miss or in
touching any part of the server's body other than the racquet.
Non-Front Server. Any served ball
that strikes the server's partner, or the ceiling, floor or side wall before
striking the front wall.
Touched Serve. Any served ball
that on the rebound from the front wall touches the server or if the server's
partner intentionally touches the served ball.
Crotch Serve. If the served ball
hits the crotch in the front wall, it is considered the same as hitting
the floor and is an out. A crotch serve into the back wall The game is
played to 11 points; however, a team must win by 2 points.
3. The receiver may use a volley
to return a serve.
34. A ball landing on any line
is considered good.
35. Both partners may hit the ball
before it crosses the net.
36. The serve is not allowed to
bounce before hitting it.
37. The receiver should stand back
on a serve because they must let it bounce before they \tab can hit it.
38. Which are in the court is the
non-volley zone?
39. Player 1 is serving. To which
area is the court may they legally serve?
Failure to Return. The failure
to return a serve results in a point for the server.
Once Touch. In attempting returns,
the ball may be touched or struck only once by one player on the returning
side. In doubles both partners may swing at, but only one may hit the ball.
Both partners on a side are entitled to return the ball.
Hitting Opponent. Any returned
ball that touches an opponent on the fly before it returns to the front
wall with the exception of a ball that obviously does not have the velocity
or direction to reach the front wall.
Body contact. Any body contact
with an opponent that interferes with seeing or returning the ball.
Screen Ball. Passes so close to
the body of a player on the side which just returned the ball to interfere
with or prevent the returning side from seeing the ball, if there is no
fair chance to see or return the ball.
Straddle Ball. A ball passing between
the legs of the player on the side which just returned the ball, if there
is not fair chance to see or return the ball.
Avoidance. While making an attempt
to return the ball, a player is entitled to have a direct path to the ball
and an unobstructed view of the ball after it leaves the front wall. It
is incumbent upon the players to give their opponents a free, uninhibited
swing at the ball. This applies in doubles as well. It is not a hinder
when one player interferes with a teammate.
In class we studied five basic strokes or shots. Each stroke has it's own strategy during active play. Knowing how to execute all five strokes and when to properly use them will make you an effective and smart player.
REMEMBER: The key to winning in badminton is keeping control. One does
this by keeping all high shots in the back (deep) court, and
all low shots in the fore (front) court. Placing a birdie
high in the front court sets your opponent up for a smash which does not show the best use of strokes for strategic play and maintaining control.
Other things to keep in mind are:
#1 keep your opponent moving
#2 hit to his/her weak stroke and force him/her to make the errors. Simple RIGHT?????
DROP SHOT: This shot is hit from anywhere on the court; however, depending- where you are will determine how much force you will need to place the birdie accurately. This stroke is meant to hit the birdie so that it will barely go over the net and land as close to the net as possible. It is a slow shot that is hit with a soft pushing motion and tends not to make a sound off the racket when contacted .
HAIRPIN: This is a recovery shot once your opponent has successfully utilized the drop shot. It is the ONLY possible return to the drop shot. The hairpin can be executed using the forehand or backhand grip. The birdie is hit as close to net height as possible. This is a very soft shot. If it is hit with too much force, the birdie will rise above the net, setting your opponent up for the easy smash. Once executing the hairpin successfully. ...the only return your opponent is left with is the hairpin as well. Try and hit the corners of the court making your opponent move out of position; therefore, forcing him/her to make the errors.
DRIVE: The drive is a flat sidearm stroke which is considered an attacking stroke. It is played on both the forehand and backhand sides and is used more in doubles than in singles play. Contact point for the drive is between the shoulder and waist, but it is always hit from as high a position as possible. When executed properly, it will skim close to the net in a parallel fashion. Do not use this shot if you cannot recover balance and come back easily to center court for control.
CLEAR: The clear is a hard hit shot/stroke and is placed in the back court. The idea of the stroke is to hit it hard enough to clear an opponent's outstretched racket in the backcourt. This forces your opponent to back up and use an awkward return. (usually a poor return) The clear is used when you feel you need to regain position. Since the birdie spends a lot of time in the air before your opponent can get to it, this allows you the time to reposition yourself and regain control of the game. (used with underhand or overhead stroke.)
*** The stroke always has the most force when the birdie is hit in front of one's body before the stroke.
SMASH: The smash is the hardest hit shot in the game. It is best utilized when hit from the mid to fore court; therefore, you will never want to set your opponent up for the smash by placing the birdie low in the mid or fore court. To execute the smash, one needs to swing downward and fast while breaking the wrist to force the birdie downward at a sharp angle. This is the hardest shot to return. Be sure to aim right at the person's racket side or away from your opponent.
RULES & BOUNDARIES
A. COURT:
1. SHORT SERVICE LINE
2. RIGHT SERVICE COURT
3. CENTER LINE
4. NO MAN'S LAND
5. BACK BOUNDARY LINE
B. GAME:
1. Ladies singles- 11 POINTS
2. Men.s singles- 15 POINTS
3. Doubles- 15 OR 21 POINTS AS ARRANGED
4. Match- 2 OUT OF 3 GAMES
C. SCORING: Only the serving side scores points. The same person continues to serve until a fault is made by the serving side. That person switches service courts (right/left) each time his/her serve is successful and wins a point .
D. PLAY:
1. The player in the right hand court always serves first .
2. The server must contact the birdie below the waist and serves diagonally to the opposite service court. The server and receiver must be in their respective service courts and may not move their feet until the birdie is delivered (served). The server and
receiver must also be careful not to step on any lines while waiting for the serve. Two players may not be in the same service court on the serve.
3. Only the person in the court diagonal to the server may return the serve.
4. Serving order: Al, Bl, B2, Al, A2, Bl, B2
5. If the birdie lands on the line it is good.
6. If the birdie hits you, it is a fault.
7. If the birdie hits the net on the way over it is still in play.
8. The ceiling and lights are out of bounds .
9. You may not touch the net with your racket or body. You are
also not allowed to go under the net or reach over the net to hit the birdie.
10.The birdie may be hit only once it is on your side. Your follow through on a stroke may pass over the net as long as you do not contact the net and the stroke was initiated on your side of the net.
11.The bird may hit only once on each side.
12.If the server swings and totally misses the birdie on the serve, it doesn't count. A reserve is allowed. If the birdie is contacted
on a service attempt, even if it is a slight brush then it is
a fault and the service is lost.
13.In a match, the team who won serves first in the next game.
14.You do not have to win by two points .
15.You are not allowed to balk (fake) on a serve.
TYPES OF SERVES
In class we practiced two service styles. REMEMBER: we never want to place the birdie high in the fore to mid-court! Other serves are often used throughout play, but be sure your serve does not set your opponent up for the SMASH!
LOW-SHORT SERVE : This serve sounds exactly like it looks. The serve is hit so that it travels low (just barely) over the net and lands just beyond the short service line. (6") This serve can be used with either the forehand or backhand grip. The server stands 1-2 feet behind the short service line and the birdie just passes over the net ( 1-2 inches above and no more) and then lands about 6 inches beyond the short service line. This is a good serve to force them up to the net and then move them to the backcourt with a clear after their return.
HIGH-DEEP SERVE: Again, this serve sounds exactly like it looks. The server stands 3-4 feet behind the short service line and hits the birdie forcefully so that it travels over the opponents head (as in a clear) and lands in the back court.
*** A GOOD SERVER WILL UTILIZE BOTH THESE SERVES INTERMITTENTLY, ALWAYS TAKING ADVANTAGE OF HIS/HER OPPONENT'S WEAKNESSES.
ANCHOR -The point by the face where the string hand is held while aiming.
ARM GUARD -A device used to protect the bow arm from the string
COCK FEATHER -The feather at right angles to the nock of the arrow. (Usually a different color from the other two feathers.)
CREST- Identifying marking on the shaft of the arrow.
DRAW -The process of bringing the string back to the anchor point.
END- six arrows shot in succession.
FINGER TAB -A protection (flat piece of leather) worn on the string hand to protect the fingers and provide a smooth release.
FLETCHING -The feathers on an arrow
HANDLE -The center part of the bow held by the archer .
HOLD -Steadily keeping an arrow at full draw before the release.
NOCK -Grooves at the end of the bow and end of the arrow Also, placing the arrow on the string.
QUIVER -A device for holding arrows.
RELEASE -To roll the fingers off the drawn string, sending the arrow on its way.
SHAFT -The main part of the arrow.
SHOOTING LINE -The line straddled by archers when shooting.
TARGET FACE -Target cover which is painted with rings.
The arrow is placed on the bow (nocked) with the cock or odd colored feather facing away from the bow. This allows the feathers to slide past the bow more easily. An arm guard and finger tab can be worn to protect the fingers and forearm from the string. Do NOT dry fire a bow. Treat a bow as a weapon. NEVER point an arrow at another person.
You use two or three fingers to draw the bowstring.
The thumb and little finger should be together away from the string. The pads or tips of the fingers are placed on the string with one finger above the nock. The arrow should rest on the left side of the bow for a right-handed person. The left side should be to the target for a right-handed person. The string should be drawn to an anchor point on the face. To release, relax the fingers allowing them to open.
When you have finished shooting, lay the bow down and step back from the line. No one crosses the shooting line until told to do so by the shooting line captain. No one picks up an arrow to start shooting until the whistle blows and you are instructed to start shooting. Targets may be moved to different distances, but all shooting is done from the same line. An end consists of six arrows.
To remove the arrows from the target, place one hand flat on the target while twisting and pulling with the other hand. Arrows are removed from the target by one person at a time starting with the person who has the arrow nearest the center.
The gold is worth 9 points; red, 7; blue, 5; black, 3; and white, 1.
Shotguns are the most versatile hunting firearm. It can be used for targets (skeet or clay pigeons) or hunting birds, deer, and even bear. This is possible because of the many different shotshell loads and choke choices that shotgunners have.
A shotgun fires many lead or steel pellets, called shot, in a pattern at a target. Common sizes of shotguns are 10(largest), 12, 16, 20, and 410(smallest) gauges. Shotguns generally have longer barrels than rifles. This is to help shooters hold and balance the gun better. Longer barrels do not shoot farther, nor do magnum shotshells, which contain more powder and shot than normal shells. Magnum loads only fire more shot, which improves your shot pattern at longer range. The additional powder is needed to push the extra shot.
Shot pellets begin to scatter as soon as they leave the muzz1e of the shotgun. The farther they travel, the farther apart they scatter. When a bird seems to fly through a shot pattern unhurt, it may be because the pellets separated so far that none struck the bird. Shot size is determined by the diameter of the pellet. The smallest standard shot size is NO. 9. The smaller the number, the larger the shot size. Shot is made of either lead or steel (actually soft iron).
Shotguns are available in several types of actions. You will find break (hinge) action, pump (slide), and semi-automatic action shotguns. With a pump action shotgun, the shooter pumps the firearm between shots to eject and load shells. After a shot, the empty shell is ejected before the next shell is loaded. Break action shotguns open at the breech (back) so you can
load shells by hand. Some are single-shot and others have two barrels. Semi-automatic action shotguns will eject and load for you between shots, without further hand operation.
Safe, responsible, and knowledgeable firearms handling is the most important thing shooters and hunters must learn. Irresponsible firearm handling causes nearly all the accidents occurring in this sport. Safe firearm handling will eliminate almost all firearm accidents. You are the most important factor in reducing firearms accidents. The key to shooting safely is to always handle your firearm in a proper, responsible manner.
To do this means you will:
1. TREAT EACH FIREARM AS IF IT IS LOADED. Never accept a firearm from anyone else until you have checked personally to see that it is unloaded. For added safety, leave the action of a firearm open when it changes hands. "I didn't know it was loaded" is never an excuse.
2. ALWAYS CONTROL THE MUZZLE OF YOUR FIREARM. Point the barrel in a safe direction. Keep your finger off the trigger until you are ready to fire. Keep the action open when not actually hunting.
3. BE SURE OF YOUR TARGET, AND WHAT IS BEYOND IT. A safe shooter never shoots at a flash of color, a sound, or a shape in a tree. Responsible shooters fire only at what they want to hit.
4. BE SURE THE BARREL AND ACTION ARE CLEAR OF OBSTRUCTIONS AND THAT YOU HAVE ONLY AMMUNITION OF THE PROPER SIZE FOR THE FIREARM.
5. NEVER POINT A FIREARM AT ANYTHING YOU DO NOT WANT TO SHOOT. Avoid all horseplay with a firearm.
6. UNLOAD FIREARMS WHEN NOT IN USE. LEAVE THE ACTIONS OPEN. Firearms should be carried empty in cases to and from shooting areas.
7. NEVER CLIMB A FENCE OR TREE, OR JUMP A DITCH OR LOG, WITH A LOADED FIREARM.
8. STORE FIREARMS AND AMMUNITION SEPARATELY BEYOND THE REACH OF CHILDREN AND CARELESS ADULTS.
9. DURING TARGET PRACTICE, BE SURE YOUR BACKSTOP IS ADEQUATE.
10.AVOID ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES OR OTHER MOOD ALTERING DRUGS BEFORE OR WHILE SHOOTING.
Relative to other recreational activities, hunting does not have as many accidents. Those casualties which do occur can be listed under three major causes of hunting accidents:
1. SAFETY VIOLATIONS (especially a loaded firearm in a vehicle)
2. HUNTER JUDGEMENT (improper identification of the target or what is in the background)
3. LACK OF SKILL OR APTITUDE (stumble or fall)
Almost all shooters have one eye that gives better information to the brain than the other. This is called your master or dominant eye. It is important to know which is your master eye before you begin to shoot a firearm.
The safety on a firearm locks the trigger and blocks the gun's actions so it cannot be fired. In order to fire, the safety must be in the "off" position. However, it is a mechanical device that can and will fail.
When hunting with others, "zones of fire" must be established so each hunter will not endanger others when he shoots. After zones of fire are determined, each hunter must shoot only within his specific zone. If a hunter shoots out of his zone of fire, he could hit one of his companions.
TERMINOLOGY
ACTION: The mechanism of a firearm which loads, fires, and ejects the shell
BARREL: The tube through which the bullet or shot passes when the firearm is fired
BASE WAD: The paper or plastic filler at the rear of the powder charge of the shotgun shell
BREECH: The rear end of the barrel
BUTT: The rear end of a rifle or shotgun stock (the pertion that rests against the shoulder)
CANT: To tilt or lean a gun to one side when aiming
CHAMBER: The enlarged portion of the barrel at the breech in which the cartridge is placed ready for firing
CHOKE: The constriction at the muzzle of a shotgun barrel by which the spread of the shot pattern is controlled.
COMB: The upper edge of a rifle or shotgun stock where the cheek rests
EJECTOR: The mechanism which throws the cartridge case free from the gun
FIRING-PIN: The mechanism which strikes the primer of a cartridge
FORE-END: (forearm) The forward portion located under the barrel, which serves as a hand-hold
GRIP: The small portion of the stock gripped by the trigger hand.
LEADING: Shooting ahead of a moving target. If you shoot directly at a moving target, by the time the shot reaches that spot, the target will have already passed by. With correct lead, the shot and the moving target will reach the same spot at the same time.
MISFIRE: Failure of a cartridge to discharge after the firearm's firing pin has struck the primer
MUZZLE: The forward end of a barrel
OVER AND UNDER GUN: A firearm with two kor more barrels placed one over the other
RANGE: The distance traveled by a projectile from the firearm to the target. Also, a facility designed for the safe shooting of firearms
SAFETY: A device that can block the firing mechanism of a firearm
SHOTGUN: A firearm with a smooth bore design to fire small pellets called shot or rifled slugs
TRIGGER: The part of a firearm mechanism which releases the firing pin
WAD: A disc used to separate powder from shot or to hold shot together in the barrel.
A set consists of: one team winning six games with a two- game lead.
A match consists of: one team winning two out of three sets.
HOW THE GAME IS PLAYED
Choice of Serve:
1. Determined by spinning the racket.
2. Person who wins the spin determines who shall serve .
3. Opponent has choice of side
Service: The first service is delivered from the right-hand
side into the left-hand service court, -with alternate sides for the remainder of the game.
Server: One person serves the entire game. After a game is completed, service is alternated with each person on the court
Number of Serves: Server is allowed two tries to get the ball into the correct service court.
Let Serve: During a service, if the ball hits the top of the net and falls into the correct service court, the serve is retaken.
PLAYERS AND PLAYING AREA
Singles: two players competing against each other
Doubles: four players competing against each other.
1. Alley
2. Back Court
3. Base Line
4. Center Mark
5. Center Service Line
6. Double Side Line
7. Singles Side Line
8. Right Service Court
9. Back Service Line
10. Left Service Court
11. Fore Court
SCORING
0 is termed love
1 point 15
2 points 30
3 points 40
fourth point is game.
If both players have 40, it is termed deuce.
The server is termed "advantage-in" and receiver is termed "advantage-out" after deuce.
A player must make two consecutive points after deuce to win a game.
RULES
Player loses a point if :
1. Ball bounces twice before it is returned
2. Ball goes into net
3. Player fails to return the ball
4. Ball goes out of playing area
Ball is considered good when landing on the line during a serve or rally.
Let hit during a rally is considered good
Foot fault is called any time a player steps on or over the base- line while serving and is considered a service fault.
TERMINOLOGY -
Size of Courts: Alleys are used during a doubles rally.
Change of Sides: Opponents change sides of the court after every odd game. This number is based on the total of games played.
Service: overhead shot; ball is tossed high in the air off the non-racket foot.
Forehand Drive: Racket side faces the net. The arm should be straight with the wrists up. Ball is hit so it goes close to the net and falls in the back court.
Backhand Drive: Same as the forehand except the ball is hit so the racket arm crosses the body.
Lob: The shot is similar to the drives except the ball is lifted in the air by turning the racket face up. The ball should
arc in the back court of opponent's court.
Smash: This shot is similar to the serve without the toss and
the player may hit the ball before or after it bounces.
Block Volley: This is a shot that is used at the net with little or no back swing. The ball does not bounce prior to hitting.
Both paddlers exhibit excellent torso rotation originating at their hips; we're talkin' a seriously efficient forward stroke.
The Single BladePower Stroke Build Your Canoeing Skills By Doug Wipper
Fast and straight with maximim efficiency
If you caught the Olympic coverage of flatwater canoe racing last fall you saw the mechanics of well rehearsed and efficient power strokes. In canoeing, having a well executed power stroke is a primary tool, whether you're propelling yourself across flats or working on a difficult move in whitewater. Here are some tips on how to improve your single blade power stroke.
The Catch: To begin your stroke, rotate your torso so you project your paddling-side shoulder forward. At the same time plant your blade in the water all the way up to the throat of the paddle. The inside edge of the blade should touch the side of the canoe and the shaft should be absolutely vertical. The placement of the catch (or start) of your stroke is determined by where your blade can be inserted into the water with the shaft plumb and your paddling-side shoulder rotated as far forward as possible.
The Forward Thrust: Much of the thrust of the power stroke is achieved not by pulling with your arms but by rotating your torso while holding the shaft vertical with the inside edge of the blade touching the boat's side. Each thrust of your stroke is achieved by projecting your paddling-side shoulder forward by twisting your torso and then rotating your torso back until your paddle comes to your hip. Using your torso muscles is much more powerful than just using your arms. As a result, you'll experience less fatigue and develop more forward thrust with each stroke. The length of your power stroke will vary depending on your physique. Generally, power strokes should be about 25 inches long with the thrust ending at your hip.
Stroke Recovery: The thrust ends at your hip. Paddle recovery begins by once again rotating your torso to project your paddling-side shoulder forward. This action also enables the paddle to be swung forward over the river surface and then inserted in the water to begin the next stroke.
Results: Two things will happen if you execute your power stroke properly. First, your canoe will travel in a straight line because of the vertical and plumb paddle position. This means less correction at the end of each stroke, lessening drag and conserving forward momentum. All the action of your paddle blade is directed sternward, meaning all of the energy from the thrust translates to forward momentum. Secondly, you'll experience less fatigue because you'll be involving the whole upper torso. And this means that at the end of the day you'll still be have enough energy to load your boat for the drive home.
Pickleball is a mini tennis like game that began in the Puget Sound region of the State of Washington USA. Though it has been around for about twenty years, the last five has seen tremendous growth. Inquires about the game come to the USAPA office from around the country and the world! It is played on any hard surface, has the same lines and dimensions as badminton courts only the net is lowered to the ground.
The United States of America Pickleball Association (the official promoter and governing body for the game) claims it builds self esteem for youngsters, provides competitive compition for active athletes and is like the fountain of youth for older players. Click on Pickleball News for more diverse descriptions of this passion we call Pickleball.
The Game
Pickleball is a simple paddle game, playing a special perforated slow-moving ball over a tennis type net, on a badminton-sized court.
The ball is served underhand, without bouncing it from the court, and is served diagonally to the opponent's service zone.
Points are scored by the serving side only and occur when the opponent faults (fails to return the ball, hits the ball out of bounds, etc.). The server continues to serve, altering service courts, until the server faults.
A game is won by the first side to reach eleven (11) points but will continue until won by a two point margin.
Unique Pickleball Features
· Serve Position: Server can have one foot inside the baseline, as long as the other foot is outside at moment of serve.
· Service Bounce Rule: Following serve, each side must make at least one ground-stroke, prior to volleying the ball (hitting it before it has bounced).
· Non-volley Zone: A player cannot volley a ball while standing within the non-volley zone.
When playing Pickleball the serve must be hit underhand and each team must play their first shot off the bounce. After the ball has bounced once on each side then both teams can either volley the ball in the air or play it off the bounce. This eliminates the serve and volley advantage and prolongs the rallies.
To volley a ball means to hit it in the air without first letting it bounce. No volleying is permitted within the seven foot non-volley zone, preventing players from executing smashes from a position within the seven foot zone on both sides of the net. This promotes the drop volley or "dink" shot playing strategies, as Pickleball is a game of shot placement and patience, not brute power or strength.
Both players on the serving team are allowed to serve, and a team shall score points only when serving.
A game is played to eleven points and a team must win by two points. Points are lost by hitting the ball out of bounds, hitting the net, stepping into the non-volley zone and volleying the ball, or by volleying the ball before the ball has bounced once on each side of the net.
The Serve: Players must keep one foot behind the back line when serving. The serve is made underhand. The paddle must pass below the waist. The serve is made diagonally cross court and must clear the non-volley zone. Only one serve attempt is allowed, except in the event of a let (the ball touches the net on the serve, and lands on the proper service court). Then, the serve may be taken over. At the start of each new game, the 1st serving team is allowed only one fault before giving up the ball to the opponents. Thereafter both members of each team will serve and fault before the ball is turned over to the opposing team. When the receiving team wins the serve, the player in the right hand court will always start play.
The Volley: To volley a ball means to hit it in the air without first letting it bounce. All volleying must be done with the player's feet behind the non-volley zone line.
Double Bounce Rule: Each team must play their first shot off the bounce. That is, the first receiving team must let the served ball bounce, and the serving team must let the return of serve bounce before playing it. After the two bounces have occurred, the ball can be either volleyed or played off the bounce.
Faults: Hitting the ball out of bounds · Not clearing the net · Stepping into the non-volley zone and volleying the ball
The Court: The court dimensions are identical to a doubles badminton court. The court dimensions are 20' x 44' for both doubles and singles. The net is hung 36'' on each end of the net and 34'' in the middle. A non-volley zone extends 7' on each side of the net. There remains 15' on each side of the court. On each side, these 20' x 15' rectangles are further divided onto two equal rectangles measuring 10' x 15'. When laying out the court, allow adequate space at each end and sides of the court boundary lines for player movement. (Three to five feet on each end and one to two feet on the sides).Pickleball Inc. can provide court building instructions for building a multi-purpose game court or Sport Court®.
Pickleball can be easily adapted to any size, hard surface such as driveways, dead-end streets, playgrounds, parking lots, patios, or small gyms. Say good-bye to the side lines and adapt the game to your hard surface. Thousands of families have been playing Pickleball through-out the United States since 1972. Teenagers and young adults enjoy this game because you can set it up anywhere and it is the ideal game for learning racquet skills.
Court Dimensions: The court dimensions are identical to a doubles badminton court. The court dimensions are 20' x 44' for both doubles and singles
Net Height: The net is hung 36'' on each end of the court and 34'' in the middle
Non-Volley Zone: A non-volley zone extends 7' on each side of the net.
How to use a compass Using the compass alone- LESSON 1
This is a very easy lesson, and I would say, not sufficient for those who would like to travel safely in unfamiliar terrain.
The first thing you need to learn, are the directions. North, South, East and West. Look at the figure and learn how they are. North is the most important.
There are several kinds of compasses, one kind to attach to the map, one kind to attach to your thumb. The thumb-compass is used mostly by orienteers who just want to run fast, and this is the kind of compass I normally use.
But not in this tutorial. I would recommend the third kind of compass. Let's take a look at it:
You see this red and black arrow? We call it the compass needle. Well, on some compasses it might be red and white for instance, but the point is, the red part of it is always pointing towards the earth's magnetic north pole. Got that? That's basically what you need to know. It's as simple as that.
But if you don't want to go north, but a different direction? Hang on and I'll tell you.
You've got this turnable thing on your compass. We call it the Compass housing. On the edge of the compass housing, you will probably have a scale. From 0 to 360 or from 0 to 400. Those are the degrees or the azimuth (or you may also call it the bearing in some contexts). And you should have the letters N, S, W and E for North, South, West and East. If you want to go in a direction between two of these, you would combine them. If you would like to go in a direction just between North and West, you simply say: "I would like to go Northwest ".
Let's use that as an example: You want to go northwest. What you do, is that you find out where on the compass housing northwest is. Then you turn the compass housing so that northwest on the housing comes exactly there where the large direction of travel-arrow meets the housing.
Hold the compass in your hand. And you'll have to hold it quite flat, so that the compass needle can turn. Then turn yourself, your hand, the entire compass, just make sure the compass housing doesn't turn, and turn it until the compass needle is aligned with the lines inside the compass housing.
Now, time to be careful!. It is extremely important that the red, north part of the compass needle points at north in the compass housing. If south points at north, you would walk off in the exact opposite direction of what you want! And it's a very common mistake among beginners. So always take a second look to make sure you did it right!
A second problem might be local magnetic attractions. If you are carrying something of iron or something like that, it might disturb the arrow. Even a staple in your map might be a problem. Make sure there is nothing of the sort around. There is a possibility for magnetic attractions in the soil as well, "magnetic deviation", but they are rarely seen. Might occur if you're in a mining district.
When you are sure you've got it right, walk off in the direction the direction of travel-arrow is pointing. To avoid getting off the course, make sure to look at the compass quite frequently, say every hundred meters at least.
But you shouldn't stare down on the compass. Once you have the direction, aim on some point in the distance, and go there. But this gets more important when you use a map.
There is something you should look for to avoid going in the opposite direction: The Sun. At noon, the sun is roughly in South (or in the north on the southern hemisphere), so if you are heading north and have the sun in your face, it should ring a bell.
When do you need this technique?
If you are out there without a map, and you don't know where you are, but you know that there is a road, trail, stream, river or something long and big you can't miss if you go in the right direction. And you know in what direction you must go to get there, at least approximately what direction.
Then all you need to do, is to turn the compass housing, so that the direction you want to go in, is where the direction of travel-arrow meets the housing. And follow the above steps.
But why isn't this sufficient? It is not very accurate. You are going in the right direction, and you won't go around in circles, but you're very lucky if you hit a small spot this way. And that's why I'm not talking about declination here. And because that is something connected with the use of maps. But if you have a mental image of the map and know what it is, do think about it. But I think you won't be able to be so accurate so the declination won't make a difference.
If you are taking a long hike in unfamiliar terrain, you should always carry a good map that covers the terrain. Especially if you are leaving the trail. It is in this interaction between the map and a compass, that the compass becomes really valuable. And that is dealt with in using the compass in interaction with a map.
Using the compass in interaction with a map- LESSON 2
This is the important lesson, and you should learn it well.
It's when you use both compass and map the compass is really good, and you will be able to navigate safely and accurately in terrain you've never been before without following trails. But it'll take some training and experience, though.
I am not covering map reading here, guess you would have to consult other sources for that, but the lesson will be useful if you have a sense of what a map says.
First, a quick summary of what you will learn in this lesson:
1. Align the edge of the compass with the starting and finishing point.
2. Rotate the compass housing until the orienting arrow and lines point N on the map.
3. Rotate the map and compass together until the red end of the compass needle points north.
4. Follow the direction of travel arrow on the compass, keeping the needle aligned with the orienting arrow on the housing.
Here is our compass again:
The principles are much the same as in lesson 1 but this time, you are using the map to tell you which way is correct instead of your intuition.
You want to go from the trail-crossing at A, to the rock at B. Of course, to use this method successfully, you'll have to know you really are at A.
What you do, is that you put your compass on the map so that the edge of the compass is at A. The edge you must be using, is the edge that is parallel to the direction of travel arrow. And then, put B somewhere along the same edge, like it is on the drawing. Of course, you could use the direction arrow itself, or one of the parallel lines, but usually, it's more convenient to use the edge. At this point, some instructors say that you should use a pencil and draw a line along your course. I would recommend against it. First, it takes a lot of time, but offers no enhancement in accuracy of the method. Second, if you have wet weather, it may destroy your map, or if it is windy, you may loose it. You should keep your map (preferably in a sealed) transparent plastic bag, and if it is windy, tied up, so it can't blow away. But most important is that any drawings may hide important details on the map.
Time to be careful again! The edge of the compass, or rather the direction arrow, must point from A to B! And again, if you do t his wrong, you'll walk off in the exact opposite direction of what you want. So take a second look. Beginners often make this mistake as well.
Keep the compass steady on the map. What you are going to do next is that you are going to align the orienting lines and the orienting arrow with the meridian lines of the map. The lines on the map going north, that is. While you have the edge of the compass carefully aligned from A to B, turn the compass housing so that the orienting lines in the compass housing are aligned with the meridian lines on the map. During this process, you don't mind what happens to the compass needle.
There are a number of serious mistakes that can be made here. Let's take the problem with going in the opposite direction first. Be absolutely certain that you know where north is on the map, and be sure that the orienting arrow is pointing towards the north on the map.
Normally, north will be up on the map. The possible mistake is to let the orienting arrow point towards the south on the map.
And then, keep an eye on the the edge of the compass. If the edge isn't going along the line from A to B when you have finished turning the compass housing, you will have an error in your direction, and it can take you off your course.
When you are sure you have the compass housing right, you may take the compass away from the map. And now, you can in fact read the azimuth off the housing, from where the housing meets the direction arrow.
Be sure that the housing doesn't turn, before you reach your target B!
The final step is similiar to what you did in lesson 1. Hold the compass in your hand. And now you'll have to hold it quite flat, so that the compass needle can turn. Then turn yourself, your hand, the entire compass, just make sure the compass housing doesn't turn, and turn it until the compass needle is aligned with the lines inside the compass housing.
The mistake is again to let the compass needle point towards the south. The red part of the compass needle must point at north in the compass housing, or you'll go in the opposite direction.
It's time to walk off. But to do that with optimal accuracy, you'll have to do that in a special way as well.
Hold the compass in your hand, with the needle well aligned with the orienting arrow. Then aim, as careful as you can, in the direction the direction of travel-arrow is pointing.
Hold the compass in your hand, with the needle well aligned with the orienting arrow. Then aim, as careful as you can, in the direction the direction of travel-arrow is pointing. Fix your eye on some special feature in the terrain as far as you can see in the direction. Then go there. Be sure as you go that the compass housing doesn't turn.
If you're in a dense forest, you might need to aim several times. Hopefully, you will reach your target B when you do this.
1. The sequence of colors on the starting post determines
the order in which players shall play. The top color shall be first to play,
etc.
2. At the start of play, the ball must be placed in a direct
line between starting post and wicket 1, and one-third of the distance from
starting post to wicket 1 (as shown in diagram).
3. The ball must be struck, not pushed, and always with the
full face of the mallet tip.
4. The tour of the ball (as shown in the court diagram) is
from the starting point through wickets 1,2,3,4,5,6 and 7 to the turning post,
and return through wickets 8,9,10,11,12,13 and 14 to strike the starting post,
thus determining the order of finish. When partners are playing, a player may
elect not to strike the finishing post after completing the wicket course, but
instead make the ball a "rover" to aid a partner or partners.
5. The tour of the ball continues as long as it passes
through a wicket or wickets, or strikes another ball or the turning post.
6. In starting, each player attempts to pass through wickets
1 and 2 with one shot. This entitles the player to two additional strokes, as
does passing through wickets 6 and 7 in either direction on one shot. The
player receives one stroke if the ball passes through wicket 1 only. One stroke
is allowed for passing through each succeeding wicket. If a player fails to
make wicket 1 on the first stroke, the ball remains in play and is
"live" to all others.
7. Participants receive a single stroke after striking the
turning post, and the ball must be played from where is comes to rest after
striking the turning post.
8. A player striking (roqueting) another ball is entitled to
two additional strokes. In this instance, one may croquet or roquet-croquet the
struck ball, or place the ball a mallet's head length away and take two
strokes.
9. If a player hits an opponent's ball and both pass through
an arch, an extra stroke is won.
10. A stroke counts, however slightly the ball is moved. A
stroke is counted if the ball returns to its original position after the shot.
11. If a player misses the ball completely, one may strike
again.
12. If a participant plays out of turn, all balls are
returned to their original positions, without penalty, and the rightful player resumes
play.
13. When the wrong ball is played, it is returned to its
original position and the erring player is deprived of a turn.
14. If a player roquets another ball and then passes through
a wicket, the player takes play in accordance with Rule 8 and must pass through
the wicket again.
15. No ball (except a rover) can roquet the same ball twice
until it passes through a wicket, roquets another ball, or strikes the turning
post.
16. If a roqueting and croqueting ball both pass through the
proper wicket with the same stroke, only one extra turn is conferred.
17. If a ball roquets more than one ball, play is taken from
the first ball struck in accordance with Rule 8. Play off the other balls is
then permissible.
18. If a rover in any manner comes in contact with the
starting post, it is automatically eliminated from the game.
19. The player roqueting or roquet-croqueting a rover so
that is strikes the starting post, has the privilege of continuing, but
cannot croquet or roquet the eliminated rover.
20. Opponents alternate in partnership play.
21. When a player drives a ball out of bounds, the ball is
replaced at the edge of the playing area where it went off.
22. A ball has not passed through a wicket (or is
"bridged") if the handle of the mallet touches the ball when laid
across the wicket on the side from which the ball was struck.
23. When a player's ball is "bridged" as described
in Rule 22, the player's mallet must not come in contact with the wicket when striking
the ball. If the wicket is touched, the ball is returned to its original
position and the turn is forfeited.
24. A "bridged" ball shall not prevent passage of
another ball through the wicket, providing both balls properly pass through in accordace
with Rule 22. The player knocking the "bridged" ball from within the
wicket is then entitled to only one stroke. One
may, however, play upon the previously "bridged"
ball as provided in Rule 8.
Field Diagram
NOTE: Wickets 1-7 must be passed through as from the
starting post side. Wickets 8-14 must be passed through as from the turning
post side.
Croquet Technical
Terms
Roquet :To roquet a ball is to cause your ball, by a
stroke of the mallet, to come in contact with another, either directly or indirrectly.
A player so doing is entitled to two additional strokes, or he may elect
to croquet or roquet-croquet the roqueted ball and then take an additional
stroke.
Croquet : With the ball in contact with a roqueted ball, the
player is allowed to place a foot or hand on the ball, and with the malletdrive
against the roqueted ball, sending it in any desired direction.
Roquet-Croquet: Similar to croquet, except the player's ball
is placed in contact with a roqueted ball, and, without placing a foot or hand on
the ball, strike the ball with the mallet, driving both in the desired
directions.
Disc Golf is a relatively new sport. The following is an excerpt
from the FAQs of the USENET group rec.sport.disc and explains what disc golf
is.
Disc golf is a great sport for everybody that relies on
one's ability to throw a disc with
power and accuracy. People of any age, ability, and gender
can excel and enjoy disc
golf immensely.
The object of the game is to traverse a course from
beginning to end in the fewest total
number of throws of a golf disc. Similar to the traditional
golf game, a course is
composed of a number of holes, in which each player begins by
throwing from the tee,
and completes the hole by landing in or striking the target.
The total score for a course is determined by totaling the
number of throws made on
each hole. The winner is the player who completes the course
in the fewest number of
throws...or whoever has the most fun!
Disc golf courses exist in many different terrains. Often
they are laid out among wooden
areas, with water hazards, large elevation changes, and
difficult throws. Other courses are
mostly flat, with few natural obstacles. The obstacles
should be considered part of the course, and not tampered with (even when a
tree eats your disc!)
The average course is 18 holes, but 9 hole and 27 hole
courses exist as well. The average hole is around 325 ft, but some are as short
as 150 ft (45m) or as long as 1000 ft (300m). Courses usually have a listed
par, for pro or amateur players. Of course, people practice disc golf all the
time by just aiming for an object a hundred yards away, which is the kind of
disc golf one will often see being played on university campuses or urban
parks.
TERMS:
Tee - this the area where the player starts
each hole. Some courses have multiple tees for each hole. The material on the
tee surface varies from concrete, asphalt, dirt, crushed stone, or wood chips.
In general, any flat non-slippery surface is good.
Target - The target is where the disc must
land in in order to complete the hole. The target is usually a "pole
hole" which is specially made to catch the golf disc. Courses that do not
use pole holes are usually known as object courses. A typical "object target"
is a tree trunk, 4x4 or pipe.
Golf disc - a "golf disc" is a
flying disc made especially for the sport of disc golf, although some players
use Wham-O type frisbees. Golf discs vary in weight and size. They are usually
harder and denser than Wham-O type frisbees. Special models
exist for driving, putting and "up shots" (not as
far as a drive, but more than a putt) much like different golf clubs exist in
ball golf. However, players are not required to use a "driver" as a
driver or a "putter" as a putter. Some players throw a putter as
their first shot from the tee. A golf disc generally costs anywhere from US
$5-7, depending on how many are bought.
A professional PDGA tour exists, currently has about
5000-7000 active members, some of whom play on a professional level
for money, and some play on a amateur level for non cash
prizes. The top money winner, in 1995 won just under $20,000.
(That would be Ken Climo of Clearwater, FL)
And one last unwritten policy... If you ever find a disc on
a course and it has someone's name and/or telephone number written
on it. Please try to find that individual and return their
disc to them.
ARCHERY
1. Alley
